September 19, 2016
Scandinavian style has been among my favourites for a long time. Simple, clean and beautiful. And this is exactly my definition of Copenhagen and its cuisine, their style of serving and presentation. Here are my (top) tips, where and how I enjoyed Copenhagen at the fullest.
Have your base here:
Former Red Light District is currently one of the most fashionable and the most trendy parts of Copenhagen. It even got into the TOP 10 of the most hipster neighbourhoods in the world by The Thrillist. 4th place. It’s situated just a quick walk from the main station and Kødbyen – Meatpacking District (former slaughter area). Here you can find bars, comfort and style 🙂 Interesting shops, galleries and places all around. AirBnB offers a good range of accommodation here and if you are lucky, maybe you catch something like us – cozy apartment with a balcony, courtyard with a garden and just a short walk from the main station.
Good To Know: If you have not registered on Airbnb yet, you will get a discount on your first accommodation through this code.
Big breakfast in GRØD. “Activity” I was looking forward to the most. This is the place, where you can enjoy your morning oatmeal all day long. And not only morning bowl from rolled oats, but in all possible and impossible ways with a different ingredients. Their Instagram is dangerous for any “Porridge lover” or “Porridge experimenter” 🙂 GRØD is located on lively Jægersborggade street. Their second small bistro is also in Tovernhallen. At the shop, which is part of GRØD, you can purchase some kitchen goodies, such as a jar of dried rhubarb (Got it!).
GRØD: Jægersborggade 50, Nørrebro or Torvehallerne, Israels Plads
One Michelin star, 40th place on the list of the best restaurants in the world, Chef Christian Puglisi (ex-Noma).. He is running between his two other restaurants, Manfreds and the Beast – with a famous Mirabelle bakery. You will be seated by the waiter, who will be presenting you wine, preparing the next course and doing débarras, as well. Everybody does everything, all in the same enthusiasm pace. We have made a booking relatively long time in advance and I definitely recommend – do it in the advance, too. Seated behind the bar, we had a lucrative kitchen view. Poor chefs, they got quite a lot of questions from us:) The courses sounded really simpleat the first hearing. Ingredients were combined and used to the last piece. For example, we drunk a broth of mushrooms (which were presented in form of pasta) among the main courses. The combination of flavours got me most in a granite. It was served as a salmon nigiri. However, instead of rice, there was rhubarb. A rhubarb surprised me in a dessert too. Definitely go for the seasonal tasting menu! And enjoy it!
Relae: Jægersborggade 41, 2200, København N
Another Christian Puglisis’ place is located just opposite of Relae. People are “singing odes” over its legendary tartare, so there was no way Tino could leave Copenhagen without trying it:) The daily menu offers only few dishes and there is always something seasonal on the list. I went for carrots. Nothing more. Just grilled carrots with lemon vinaigrette. And it was great. Beef tartare was amazing as well (with watercress and crumbs of rye bread, flavoured with lemongrass). Please, do not leave without trying the bread from the Mirabelle bakery. Just dip into olive oil. Nothing more. A sin full of flour!
Manfreds: Jægersborggade 40, 2200 København N
Ice cream made by liquid nitrogen. Over the weekend you might be lucky to meet Istid foodtruck with the selection of alcoholic cocktails. Do try. But make sure to give a chance to the ice cream. Rhubarb (Again?). Or try their bestseller – salty caramel ice cream! Then go to burn these calories and head for a walk to the cemetery at the very end of Jægersborggade. It’s not cemetery as cemetery – this one is full of greens, paths and people enjoying the walk. Here you can also find the monument of Hans Christian Andersen, who was born in Copenhagen.
Istid: Jægersborggade 13, 2200 København N
I think it’s just a matter of time until Höst receives a Michelin star. It caught my heart with its Norwegian design. Actually, it was voted as a number one “Design restaurant of 2014”. Beautiful photos of the interior and the excellent feedback on their cuisine, still quite reasonably priced. Again, go for the tasting menu. We chose two different options with wine pairing. Although, there are written three meals on the menu, in fact you get seven or even eight courses. Food and its serving was creatively presented. And the dessert! For me, Höst is my absolute hero of Copenhagen.
Höst: Nørre Farimagsgade 41, 1364 København K
if you want to enjoy a glass of wine around the place, Bibendum is just a short distance from Höst. Nice place to go for a drink (or two, three..). The name is derived from the Latin “et Nunc Bibendum” that means “Now is time to drink.” Is it?
Bibendum: Nansensgade 45, 1366 København
What can be more traditional to taste, than Danish open sandwiches – Smørrebrød. The full translation smør og brød means “bread and butter” and you can find them in any version from smoked salmon, tartare, avocado up to many egg variations.. In the past, open sandwiches were a classic dish and a quick lunch for people from working class. Small bistro Aamans serves great combinations, embellished on their homemade rye bread. Colours and imagination on the plate 🙂 In addition to Smørrebrød, you can try their homemade Schnaps, which is paired with sandwiches. Smørrebrød choice for me: Combo of Avocado – Pickled shallots – Lemon cream – Cabbage – Wild garlic – Crumbs of rye bread – Young shoots of peas. Combo for Tino: Beef tartare- Cream of smoked cheese – Yellow pickled beets – Capers – Radish – Potato chips.
Aamanns: Øster Farimagsgade 10, 2100 København Ø
Yes – Coffee Collective, I agree. You will walk across the town to sip their coffee 🙂 Find them on Jaegerborsgade and in Torvehallerne. However, Copenhagen has many other good small cafés. Great strong espresso will be waiting for you in Heimdalsgade 22, which is also a small shop and a place where you can rest and read a magazine. Look for the corner of Heimdalsgade and Overskaeringen at Superkillen park in Norrebro. Superkillen is a one kilometer long area, divided into three zones – red square, the black market and a green park. Be sure to make the effort to head here.
Coffee Collective: Jægersborggade 13, 2200 København N / Torvehallerne: Vendersgade 6D 1363 Copenhagen K / Godthåbsvej 34B 2000 Frederiksberg // Heimdalsgade 22: Heimdalsgade 22, 2200 København
Try coffee at Hotel Central – the smallest hotel in the world, which has only one room. A small café with five seats. They have coffee from Danish coffee roaster and coffee house Risteriet.
Hotel Central: Tullinsgade 1, 1618 København V
I recommend this spot for breakfast in Vesterbro. It was raining, but Granola was crowded and locals were waiting outside the door in a queue to catch the table. Do not expect any fashion hipster place, but the classic style. With nice staff and good breakfast! After a night in the Meat District, Eggs Benedict or Omelette will be your lifesaver.
Granola: Værnedamsvej 5, 1819 Frederiksberg C
The former slaughterhouse is the place where you can find cafes, galleries, terraces, deck chairs, beers, young people scattered among former factories and one of the best Nordic fish bar. Try NOHO for a coffee or drink (for example Espresso Martini.. someone is hiding Martini in the espresso cup in the morning :)) During one evening we experienced a heavy metal concert and few beers in WarPigs (for beer-time definitely here!), ended up at the party in the Bakken (around midnight it turned into the dancing crowd) and during the day we visited two gallery openings, surprised by really friendly atmosphere.
GoodToKnow: The whole Meat District still consists of three separate areas: White – Grey – Brown (colours of the buildings). In addition to the places we tried, it is worth noting Pate – Pate (check the Kinfolk article), unfortunately, without a reservation, there was no chance to grab a place there, so this time we had to skip it.
This three-storey house is another must-see in Vesterbro. Floors crowded with guys with drinks, wine and whiskey. On the first floor bartenders serve you a drink or beer and maybe you catch a sit near the fireplace.The top floor is a whiskey bar with more than 200 different kinds. On Saturday night Lindkoeb was completely full! If the weather was better, I can vividly imagine how their garden with the gazebo is full of dancing people.